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How to Care for Leather

Good leather gets better with age, if you look after it. Our owner Georgie is a qualified saddler, trained with the Society of Master Saddlers in London, and our team makes leather goods by hand in our Evandale workshop. Here's what we've learned about keeping leather looking its best.

The basics

  1. Keep it clean. Wipe off dust and dirt regularly with a soft, dry cloth or a horsehair brush. Dirt left on leather dries it out.
  2. Condition it. Leather is a natural skin and needs moisture. Condition it every few months, or more often if it's used hard or gets wet.
  3. Protect it. A water and stain protector helps stop marks before they happen.
  4. Let it breathe. Store leather somewhere cool and dry, out of direct sunlight, in a cotton dust bag rather than plastic.
  5. Always test first. Try any cleaner, oil or conditioner on a small hidden spot, and let it dry, before using it on the whole item. Some products can darken leather.

Cleaning leather

  • Brush or wipe off loose dirt first.
  • For marks, use a pH-balanced leather cleaner on a soft cloth. Work gently in small circles and don't soak the leather.
  • Let it dry naturally, then condition it, because cleaning removes some of the leather's oils.
  • Never use household cleaners, baby wipes, alcohol or detergent on leather.

Conditioning and oiling

  • Leather conditioner or cream: for everyday care of bags, wallets, belts, jackets and footwear. Apply a small amount with a soft cloth, let it soak in, then buff off.
  • Light leather oil, such as Leathaphane: good for reviving old, tired or dry leather, and for keeping new leather supple.
  • Neatsfoot oil, such as Joseph Lyddy Neatsfoot Oil: a heavier, natural oil for saddlery, work boots and leather that has gone hard after getting wet. It will darken most leathers.
  • Dubbin: a wax, oil and tallow blend that softens and waterproofs work and outdoor boots. (In store)
  • Don't use oils on suede or nubuck.
  • A little goes a long way. Too much product leaves leather sticky and attracts dirt.

Waterproofing

  • Spray a water and stain protector on new items before you use them, and reapply every few months.
  • If leather gets wet, blot off the water, stuff bags or boots with paper to hold their shape, and let them dry slowly at room temperature.
  • Never dry leather by a heater, fire or hairdryer, or in the sun. It will crack and shrink.
  • Once dry, condition it to put back the oils the water took out.

Leather footwear

  • Brush off dirt after each wear with a horsehair shoe brush.
  • Polish with a cream polish in a matching colour to cover scuffs and feed the leather, then buff to a shine.
  • Use shoe trees or stuffed paper to keep the shape, and give shoes a day's rest between wears so they can dry out.
  • For odour, try Gran's Remedy foot powder or a carbon-activated leather insole.
  • Shoes too tight? A leather stretch spray can ease pinching spots. (In store)

Suede and nubuck

  • Brush regularly with a suede brush to lift the nap and remove dust.
  • Rub out small marks with a suede eraser block.
  • Use a cleaner made for suede and nubuck. Never use oils, polish or conditioner meant for smooth leather.
  • Protect suede with a protector spray before the first wear.

Leather bags, wallets and belts

  • Empty bags before storing them, and stuff them with paper so they keep their shape.
  • Don't hang heavy bags by their straps for long periods.
  • Keep pens, makeup and anything that might leak in a separate pouch.
  • Many of our own bags are lined with suede and use solid brass fittings. Brass naturally darkens over time; a soft cloth keeps it bright. 

Sheepskin slippers and boots

  • Brush sheepskin gently to keep the wool fluffy.
  • Spot clean with a damp cloth and a little wool wash. Don't machine wash.
  • Dry slowly, away from heat, stuffed with paper to hold the shape.
  • Spray with protector to help repel water and stains.

Cowhides and skins

  • Shake out or brush in the direction of the hair. You can vacuum on a low setting without the beater bar.
  • Blot spills straight away with a dry cloth. Don't rub.
  • Spot clean with a damp cloth and a little mild soap, then let it dry flat.
  • Never wash, soak or dry clean a hide.
  • Rotate rugs now and then so they wear evenly and fade evenly in sunlight.

Natural character

Real full-grain leather has natural marks, wrinkles and colour variations. These aren't faults: they show it's genuine, and every piece is different. Leather will also darken and soften with use, and that patina is part of its charm.

Need help?

Bring your leather goods into any of our stores in Evandale, Campbell Town, Hobart or Strahan, and we'll happily advise you on care. You can also shop our Leather and Footwear Care range, or contact us.

Leather care FAQ

How often should I condition leather?

Every three to six months for most items, more often for work boots or anything that gets wet a lot.

Can I use olive oil or coconut oil on leather?

No. Cooking oils can go rancid, leave stains and attract dirt. Use a product made for leather.

My leather got wet. What do I do?

Blot it dry, stuff it with paper, and let it dry slowly at room temperature away from heat. Then condition it.

Can I use leather conditioner on suede?

No. Conditioners and oils will flatten and stain suede. Use a suede brush, eraser and suede cleaner instead.

Why has my leather darkened?

Leather naturally darkens with use, sunlight and oils from your hands. Oils and conditioners can also darken it, which is why we recommend testing on a hidden spot first.